The pleasure of discovering new talents
Contrary to snobbish well-being on the part of the world of wine, Bordeaux viticulture and oenology are not sclerotic. Fine stylists emerge every year. The Château Fleur de Lisse 2018 touched me a lot, because it perfectly illustrates what drives our profession as a taster: detecting the potential of new talents, the sensitivity and vision lead over the vintages to create their identity and anchor among the finest wines in their sector.
The owner of Château La Loubière in Bordeaux, the Teycheney family took over the hillsides of limestone-limestone colluvium in Saint-Etienne-de-Lisse in 2016, at Château Fleur de Lisse, in the Saint-Emilion Grand cru appellation. Patrick Teycheney leaves the controllers to his daughter Caroline. Coming from the world of luxury watchmaking, the young woman gradually apprehends the earth. She appoints Nicolas Géré, who passed a good school with Jean-Louis Chave, technical director of the property. During a visit to the property last fall, the duo presented me with their first three vintages: 2016, 2017 and 2018. In three years, the leap in finesse and luster of the wine was impressive. The subtle bouquet of black fruits and licorice of 2018, its concentrated material extracted gently, carried by established tannins with finesse, are remarkable. This vintage begins to draw the stylistic vision of the château, testifying to the transition to organic (certification in 2020) with biodynamic practices, a generous portion of Cabernet Franc (50%), guaranteeing a particular fresh grain, and a refining in barrels and terracotta jars. An area to follow closely. A.G.